Sahjeevan (Centre for Pastoralism), in association with Access Livelihoods & Käse Cheese hosted ‘A Taste of Pastoral India: Crafting Artisanal Cheese’ on 30th March 2022 at Novotel Hotel, Ahmedabad, highlighting artisanal cheesemaking as a means to enhance livelihoods of pastoral communities. For commercial cheese makers, improved practice and evaluative standards are keyed as consumer expectations and preference.
The day-long session kickstarted with an introduction to Sahjeevan’s (Centre for Pastoralism) work with the pastoral community andhow milk derived from pasture system has a significant influence on the milk metabolomic profiles, some of which might have health benefits. Dr. Vasant Saberwal – Director, CfP – highlighted the need to explore various technologies in biological, ecological and anthropological contexts of the rangelands and pastoralism so that dying lifestyles and cultures of the pastoral population can survive in hostile climate change regime.
Two community entrepreneurs from the Maldhari(Pastoral) community from Surendranagar district of Gujarat, proudly spoke of their foray into artisanal cheesemaking as analternative to retain interest among youths of the community in an effort to tap the production system of pastoralists. They are currently being trained in artisanal cheese making by NamrataSundaresan, Co-Founder, Käse Cheese.
Guests who attended included authors, food anthropologist and raconteur, cheesemongers, regional cuisine author, food sourcing experts, wellness and food enthusiasts, nutritionists, doctors and diabetologists. Two key panel discussions were curated with experts weighing in with their opinions. The first discussion on artisanal food going mainstream with the rising demand for locally procured foods was attended by Dr. KurushDalal – food anthropologist, Mukund Naidu – artisanal cheese expert, Culinary chronicler & food consultant- RushinaMunshawGhildiyal and editor, Co-Founder of Goya Journal – Anisha Rachel Oommen
The second discussion deliberated on the journey of nutrition and food trends that are changing in the Indian diet,leaning more towards the demand for healthy foods. Attended by Diabetologist – Dr. Sriram, Fermentation guru – Payal Shah, Sports scientist – Karishma Boolani and cheese expert – Namrata Sundaresan. The session reflected about riveting stories of the paradigm shift in food habits and also the perception and consumption of food and nutrition in India.
Dr. Manoj Mishra, Director (Sahjeevan) & Anchor – Livelihoods – CfP said that, “Pastoral cheese offers insights into livestock traditions, the soil, the region and its history. This cheese — with a melt-in-the-mouth texture on the inside — consumed raw, with or without embellishments and also by putting a salad bed underneath it finds blends with various condiments and regional cuisines. These salty, smoky, versatile, delectable cheeses now have to inch their way into contemporary dining space”.
Namrata Sundaresan, Co-Founder, Käse Cheese said that“The idea behind the event was to showcase and start the conversation on Pastoral milk and cheese being the value-added product that could impact the livelihoods of this community. We are just getting started and the potential is enormous!”
The session concluded with a much-awaited tasting of the cheese varieties crafted from the indigenous milk obtained from the Pastoral production system. On the platter was 10 varieties of cheese including Queso Fresco, Feta, Halloumi, Chevre, Cheddar, Tomme, Crottin, Pecorino using Goat and Sheep milk from Surendra Nagar, Gujarat. A unique Halloumi was also introduced, using camel milk from Bajju, Rajasthan.The Cheese varieties were paired, plated and introduced to the audience by India’s celebrated cheesemonger, Mansi Jasani with local Indian Condiments like khakra, bhakarwadi, choonda, honey, kasundi mustard, tomato chutney and introduced to the guests for tasting and feedback
